Bun Venit

Dolce chef and owner Juliana Manea shows off one of her traditional Romanian dishes.

Dolce Eastern European Restaurant & Pizza offers guests a warm welcome and lengthy menu

By April Bartel

Pull into Dolce’s tiny parking lot at 792 Frederick Street in Hagerstown and the first thing you’ll notice is a sign with founder Juliana “Julia” Manea peeking out of the window and an emblazed greeting, “Welcome to my house!” That’s about right. The equally diminutive structure has been home to the full-service restaurant since April of 2007.

Chef Juliana at work in the tiny Dolce kitchen. 

 Julia Manea learned a passion for food from her parents and began cooking professionally in her native Romania, including working at some high-end restaurants. She refined her repertoire and techniques over 40 years, continuing to ply her trade after moving to the United States in 1999. By 2001 she was working at Tony’s Pizza in Smithsburg, but customers were intrigued at what was on her own plate during meal breaks. 

Julia’s son, Ciprian Manea, is now a chef at Dolce, too, although green card issues kept mother and son apart for nearly a decade. He recalls hearing how people would ask about his mother’s off-menu repasts, “So, what kind of food are you eating?” She would explain, sharing information about her cultural background and homestyle recipes. Ciprian beams, “They were like, ‘Wow! Why don’t you open a place for yourself?’” 

The thought took hold, but opening Dolce didn’t happen overnight. Ciprian, once professional footballer in Romania, says that it took Julia about two-and-a-half years to find and transform the space, formerly a locksmith shop, into what it is today. “We had to knock down walls and change a lot of things,” he says. “It took a lot of patience, a lot of nerves, and work. Luckily, the landlord worked with us.” 

Now, the place has 10 tables and can seat about 34 people. The tiny kitchen churns out plenty of to-go and catering orders as well. They are known for pizza with freshly made dough, chewy and browned to perfection, loaded with inventive combinations. Customers rave about the generous toppings on their “Special” pizza. It’s a colorful riot of pepperoni and sausage, ham, bacon, mushrooms, onions, green peppers, and banana peppers staged on melted mozzarella and parmesan cheeses. 

“Julia’s” pizza features sweet shrimp, broccoli, fresh garlic, parsley, and cheddar with mozzarella and parmesan. The understated Margarita pizza, the original pie or pies, sports tender tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, and fresh basil with cheeses. 

One of Dolce’s pizzas with its eclectic toppings. 

Dolce’s calzones and strombolis are equally savored. We spied one of their vegetarian calzones being served during our visit and it was as long as an arm, loaded with fresh vegetables and cheese, served with a huge bowl of slow-simmered sauce for dipping. There are versions with steak or chicken or ham and salami. And Ciprian assures us that everything is made to order so it can be customized if a guest wants to add or subtract ingredients. 

Of course, there is also meaty lasagna, served with a drape of browned and bubbling cheese on a piping hot platter or stout stuffed shells in bright tomato sauce and more cheese. The everyday menu boasts popular choices like manicotti, eggplant parmesan, chicken cacciatore, and fettuccine Alfredo, along with mozzarella sticks, antipasto, and good old American-style chicken wings or cheese fries as appetizers. Dinners come with a garden salad and the diners’ choice of garlic bread or dinner rolls made in-house. 

While many guests equate Mediterranean food with Italy or Greece, the Manea family’s menu draws from a broader area. Crispy Wiener Schnitzel with mashed potatoes and layered Moussaka make the cut, as well as many classic Romanian recipes. 

Tochitura Moldoveneasca is a robust dish that features slowly stewed chunks of pork loin, flavored with sausages, chicken liver, tomato, and garlic. Dolce serves it alongside creamy Mămăligă (soft-boiled corn Polenta) with egg and feta cheese. 

Ciprian says while regional cuisines share many of the same ingredients, the preparations and seasonings make the difference, reflecting this small country’s diverse influences as a crossroads of culture.   

One of Romania’s most iconic dishes is known as sarmale. It is the country’s version of soured cabbage rolls that are stuffed with meat, rice, and spices. Julia’s version blends ground beef and pork and is garnished with fresh herbs and sour cream. The intensive process is a labor of love, according to Ciprian. 

“From the beginning to the end, for us, it’s like six or seven hours to make.” Mom Julia and the kitchen crew start making them during the morning shift.  

Ciprian’s personal favorite? “Moldavian Chicken or Rice Chicken.” Each starts with a base of sweet onions, carrots, and earthy parsley with slight variations of tomato, potato, or rice added. 

There’s always a list of daily specials and tempting desserts, too. Eat-in guests get a special treat. Meals end with a delightful finale of warm fried dough batons dusted with powdered sugar, akin to American donut bites or mini-Italian zeppoles–on the house.  

With selections that range from cozy and familiar to enticingly novel, there’s plenty of room for exploration at Dolce. Ciprian advises, “Take a chance on something new, even if you don’t know the name of the dish. Come and try. I’m sure you’re going to like it.”  

You just might find a new favorite.

Its small size belies the big flavor of the food at Dolce on Frederick Street in Hagerstown.