Savoring the Seasons
The Rhubarb House on the Public Square offers seasonal dining.
In downtown Hagerstown, Shellie Ralston turned her love of cooking into the Rhubarb House
By April Bartel
Established by Shellie Ralston in 2000, Rhubarb House is an outgrowth of the Tasteful Presentations catering service she started in the mid-1990s. Now, both businesses operate under the Rhubarb House umbrella. The split-level eatery is open for lunch during the week and special periodic dinners.
The comfortable main room at the Rhubarb House and some of its comfort food, including creamy tomato soup.
On most evenings and weekends, its commercial kitchen is devoted to whipping up food for special events like weddings, graduations, baby or bridal showers, or corporate meetings. The place is a presence downtown, known for its bright atmosphere, inventive dishes, and gracious service, tucked into the row of historic buildings behind the clock tower at the corner of Potomac and Washington streets.
Ralston says she has always loved to cook, learning at the elbow of her mother and grandmother. Baking was a particular joy.
“They were fabulous cooks, and I definitely learned so much from them. But a home kitchen is totally different from cooking commercially.”
She originally envisioned a different career for herself, starting college at 17 on the path to a nursing degree. She worked in restaurants to pay the bills during school and discovered an affinity for the work. “I kind of fell in love with it,” she says.
The confluence between caring hospitality and creative cooking is where Ralston found her sweet spot. With an established catering company under her belt, opening a restaurant seemed like a natural progression.
“When you have a storefront, people take you seriously,” she says. “The two go hand-in-hand.”
The restaurant has its own following, even with its limited hours. Online reviewers give it consistently high marks, as do Hagerstown Magazine readers who put Rhubarb House catering on the Hot List again in 2023.
A tower of charcuterie at the Rhubarb House.
Ralston likes to update recipes regularly, reflecting seasonal ingredients and elevated flavors, but she keeps fans’ most beloved dishes true to form.
“One of the things people love is our chicken salad,” says Ralston. It is hand-picked, dotted with bites of sweet fruit and crunchy celery that pairs perfectly with a fluffy croissant.
“We make pretty much everything homemade and from scratch,” says Ralston. That includes soups like their delicate cream of crab, creamy tomato, and roasted red pepper bisque. “And we always have ‘comfort food’ on the menu.”
There are daily specials like gooey cheesesteaks or a refined veggie quiche, but diners can always find some type of steak, roasted chicken, homemade flatbread pizza, deli-style sandwich, and salad. All are crafted with Rhubarb House’s signature flare, like their smoked turkey that is served on toasty raisin bread with a blue cheese-pecan spread that delivers a sweet-savory burst.
Winter fare may incorporate a side of brussels sprouts, roasted until brown and tender, or caramelized butternut squash mixed into a hearty quinoa salad. There are vegetarian friendly and gluten free options as well.
“Each season we do something different,” beams Ralston, who likes to update the dining room’s artful décor along with the menu. “In spring, we use fresh berries. In winter, we use the fall harvest and orchard fruits.”
Ralston looks for local sources wherever possible. In season, she may even share some of the bounty from her little home garden.
“Then we do the same thing with our homemade desserts.”
The nicely decorated main room at the Rhubarb House and the chicken salad sandwich.
The indulgent banana walnut coconut cake with a caramelized topping is a top seller for a reason. Guests may find fudgy peppermint brownies with chocolate ganache, cinnamon nut diamond cookies, chocolate layer cake, velvety lemon bars, or macarons. For Valentine’s Day, guests can order a box of whimsically decorated sugar cookies as sweets for their sweetie.
Rhubarb House does host private parties, too, comfortably seating 75 to 100 guests. In warmer weather, there is a small courtyard space out front that can be used for events as well. Folks who want to entertain at home with less fuss can order take-out.
“Sometimes they just want to pick up spreads or appetizers or desserts. They can call and order,” says Ralston, who puts out notices via Instagram and Facebook about what they are making and availability updates. Eating in? The place gets hopping, so reservations are encouraged but not required.
Rhubarb House has been called “casual yet classy” by patrons and that suits Ralston just fine.
“We’ve been pretty blessed,” she says, “and we have a fabulous clientele.”
Whether guests are first-timers who find their way over from the neighboring visitors’ center or long-time patrons, the restaurant offers a welcome retreat.
“I want people to come in and feel comfortable but elevated.”
The Rhubarb House
12 Public Square, Hagerstown
Open Monday through Friday
Handicapped accessible, beer and wine available, credit
cards accepted, limited on-street parking.