Dinner and an Air Show
The Grille at Runways blends good food with views to fly for
By April Bartel
Airline food may be fodder for comedians, but The Grille at Runways is no joke. This destination restaurant boasts first-class fare and some of the best views around for aviation enthusiasts.
The Runways Grille welcomes guests with a full-size, fire-engine-red biplane.
The eatery is part of the Rider Jet Center, led by owner and operator Ben Rider, on the grounds of the Hagerstown Regional Airport. Also known as Richard A. Henson Field, the public airport has its own long and storied history. Travelers trekking to and from tourist hotspots in Florida or South Carolina may recognize it for its commercial service by Allegiant Air, but locals know there is much more to the place. There’s even a dedicated museum on site and plenty of annual events.
The Grille is part of a hub that houses more than 150 general aviation aircraft and 20 aviation-related businesses, including its neighbor and sister company, Rider Jet Center. The restaurant was added as part of a $6 million expansion in 2014 that took the center from 3,000 square feet up to a modern two-story facility with about 25,000 square feet.
It has parking for planes and cars, a cozy lounge area, Wi-Fi, and a petite gift shop, proffering plenty of collectibles and plane-themed casual wear. Overhead is a full-sized, fire engine-red biplane and a photo tribute to Dave Rider, Ben’s father and business cofounder, a well-known local entrepreneur and philanthropist who passed away in 2019. As a fixed base operator, the center provides a host of services for pilots, passengers, and airlines, including fuel, weather monitoring, hangar space, and its full-service restaurant. Fans of Runways have been known to fly their private planes in just for dinner.
Heather Heiser is the general manager for the restaurant. She joined the crew in 2019 and stepped up to leadership in 2022. She is no stranger to the restaurant business, starting as a busser at just 14 years old. She says the environment makes the place a standout, both literally and figuratively.
“My ‘office’ has an incredible view of the runway and the mountains, and I get to watch planes land and take off all day,” she says. “It is the unique atmosphere which adds to the charm of the restaurant.”
She says the close-knit staff always strives to give guests the best experience possible. “Much of my front-of-house staff has been here for years. My two lead servers have been here for four-plus years, my bartender started here as a busser and has worked here for seven-plus years.” Heiser says. “I think that speaks volumes about the restaurant.”
Tara Cluck is head chef. She also joined the staff in 2019 and is now the creative mind behind their evolving menu and food specials, including their enduringly popular scallop risotto.
“That’s my personal favorite,” beams Cluck.
The luscious rice-based dish is made with mushrooms and a miso-dashi broth for a burst of umami flavor. Then it is finished with indulgent cream and plump sea scallops. Cluck suggests complementing the meal with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.
Scallop risotto, a rice-based dish is made with mushrooms and a miso-dashi broth for a burst of umami flavor.
Two classic tastes here are the chargrilled filet mignon that is bathed in garlic herb butter and plated with a red wine demi-glace or the Maryland jumbo-lump crab cakes served golden brown with a side of house-made dill tartar sauce.
Each sumptuous entrée can be a meal on its own or paired together for a superlative surf and turf. The current menu sports a pork ribeye with spicy honey butter that is served alongside swirled gemelli pasta cloaked in bacon and cheddar as well as garlicky seafood scampi with sweet jumbo shrimp, scallops, and roasted tomatoes, accented with fresh sorrel.
Those who prefer a refreshing salad can choose from Cluck’s southern-style twist on a classic Cobb with black-eyed peas, cornbread croutons, and a snappy jalapeno ranch dressing. The Black & Blue marries Cajun dusted filet tips with pungent bleu cheese while the Dill Caper version plays supporting cast to tender chargrilled salmon.
Handheld fare includes an eclectic mix ranging from stacked half-pound burgers and club sandwiches to their crab cake tucked into a Kaiser roll or a black forest ham pretzel melt. The Cuban Rueben is a meld of favorites with Cuban roast pork with pastrami on marbled rye that is layered with Swiss cheese, pickles, and sauerkraut.
Weekly specials are Cluck’s opportunity to introduce even more variety and explore unique ingredients.
“On my days off, I will go to the farmers’ markets and Mennonite farms nearby,” she says. It may be fresh sweet corn or crisp Asian pears from Andrew’s Farm or savory country sausage from Hoffman’s that sparks her imagination. Her penchant for research and exploration resulted in adding fermented black beans and aromatic black garlic to her repertoire. Specials change weekly, starting Tuesday at 5 p.m. and run through Saturday at 8 p.m.
Cluck gets creative with equipment as well. She repurposed a vintage appliance normally used to hold hot food into an in-house smoker. She pairs hickory smoked beets alongside artisanal greens, local pears, and sharp Gorgonzola. Her smoked duck swims among asiago-stuffed gnocchi with morel and shiitake mushrooms in rich jus. She’s done brisket and chicken wings, too. If you see “smoked” as a modifier, Cluck confirms, it is probably done in house.
A chargrilled filet mignon bathed in garlic herb butter.
If you are coming for drinks and appetizers, make sure to check out the happy hour specials (Tuesday through Saturday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.). They are always listed on the Runways Facebook page, along with tantalizing photos to whet an appetite.
Diners return for their favorite cheesy crab fries, which Cluck tweaked for the latest menu update. She assures us that the waffle-cut potatoes are better than ever, tossed in a buttery Parmesan sauce before a finish of mozzarella curds, sweet blue crab, and Old Bay.
Guests may find sausage-stuffed peppers, duck poutine, stuffed dates, or indulgent snow crab cocktail on the menu. Pair them with a local beer or inventive drink special, like their Maple Whiskey Mule with ginger beer, Apple Pie cocktail, or a spiked eggnog. The seasonal drink menu changes four times a year, but Runways signature Red Leader is always available. It honors Dave Rider’s memory with the warm embrace of caramel vodka, salted caramel Kahlua, and Bailey’s Irish Cream liqueur.
And don’t forget breakfast.
“I would like to point out that we are one of the few restaurants, as far as mom-and-pops, that serve three meals a day, five days a week,” says Cluck. Runways is closed Mondays but open on Tuesday through Friday 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. They open Saturdays for breakfast at 9 a.m. with Sunday brunch served 9 a.m. until 2 p.m., dishing out hefty omelets and three types of eggs Benedict: traditional Canadian bacon, blue crab, or buttery lobster topped.
“We get a lot of military members in here, Blackhawk helicopters,” Cluck says. “The Coast Guard is here regularly. It’s nice that we are open that early and they can get something to eat.”
When asked how she feels watching so many return customers coming in for a landing Cluck says, “It really humbles me when I look out into the dining room and see people enjoying my food. It makes me feel good.”
It’s a feeling that keeps the Grille at Runways’ crew flying high.
